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useless in the cosmetics for the greasy complexion. concerning the stiffening of the hair on the degree of
Firstly, there is a possibility of an indirect effect, follow- hair greasing indicates that the part of the sebum comes
ing the conversion (in the skin) to the isotretinoin, con- directly from the scalp. Most probably both mechanisms
sidering that the biochemical processes in the skin are have a significant influence on the look of the hair.
leading not only to the 13-cis-retinoic acid but also to Mostly herbs are used in the cosmetic products for the
the other compounds, the effect will be much weaker greasy hair treatment because of their multidirectional
than that of isotretoin. Secondly, retinoids controlling the effect mentioned before. Some herb extracts (for exam-
keratinisation process, will limit the excessive hornifica- ple from the nettle) change the hair surface characteris-
tion of the hair follicle and as a result will reduce the risk tics, reducing it s lipophilicity.
of comedone formation. Apart from the retinoids, non-
Apart from herbs, similar to the facial care, often used
hormonal effect is also revealed by some other com-
substances are elubiol, colloidal sulfur as well as used
pounds. Elubiol, derivative of the imidazole, having
less often in the skin care cosmetics raw materials such
strong sebostatic effect, is recently used in cosmetics
as sulfoorganic compounds or wood tar. Colloidal sulfur
for the greasy complexion. Elubiol is an analogue of
used in the products reducing the sebum secretion also
compounds sucessfully used in the dandruff treatment
have an antibacterial effect, breaks the vicious circle
ketoconasole and climbasole, but in contradiction to
without reducing the sebum secretion. The real reduc-
those has a weak fungostatic effect.
tion in the sebum glands activity, resulting in the reduc-
One of the most important supporting action in the tion of the quantity of sebum on the head surface could
greasy complexion care is the opening of the hair follicle be achieved using the elubiol, wood tar or shale oil. The
vents which reduces the risk of comedone formation. effect of it is not immediate, best effects give few weeks
For this reason often salicylic acid and allantoin is used, of regular application. Limitation of the microorganism
having not only keratolitic and keratoplastic effect, but development resulting in the indirect reduction in the se-
also have an anti-inflammation effect as well as alpha- bum secretion can also be achieved applying sulfoor-
hydroxyacids and colloidal sulfur (against the common ganic substances such as methionine esters or sub-
general opinion having no effect on the sebaceous stances found in the onion or radish. Considering their
gland activity). unpleasant smell their use is limited to the introduction
to the cosmetics of the processed natural raw materials.
For many years the most popular raw materials used in
Summary
cosmetics for the greasy complexions are herbs. Active
substances contained in herbs have multidirectional ef- Greasy and mixed complexion care as well as greasy
fect they influence the sebum glands activity, reduce hair care is certainly one of the most serious cosmetic
the amount of the sebum secretion (most probably also challenges. Obtained results are rear as spectacular as
changing it s composition, modifying viscosity), also for example effects of the moisturising cosmetics.
have a bacteriostatic effect. Most popular are herb ex- Reaching the effect longed for, that is the improvement
tracts with the bacteriostatic and antioxidant effect (from in the look of hair and complexion necessitates not only
36 / Wiadomości PTK Vol. 4, Nr 3/4
SUBSTANCJE CZYNNE
logy of the Skin, Oxford University Press, New York (1991)
regular application of the cosmetic, but also reduction of
Leung A.Y., Foster S. (ed) Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingre-
the factors responsible for the stimulation of the activity
dients, John Wiley & Sons, Inc, New York (1996)
of sebaceous glands this is often impossible without
Moszczyński P. Biochemia Witamin, PWN, Warszawa (1999)
understanding by the user the reasons for excessive
Orfanos E.C., Hair and Hair Diseases, Springer Verlag, Hamburg
(1990)
sebum secretion.
Zviak C., The Science of Hair Care, Marcel Dekker Inc., New York
References
(1986)
Company literature from Janssen Pharmaceutica
Goldschmidt L.A. (ed) Physiology, Biochemistry, and Molecular Bio-
Vol. 4, Nr 3/4 Wiadomości PTK / 37
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